I'm is a multi-award-winning blogger and freelance writer for design and interiors. Living in a rented abode has ignited a passion for injecting my personal style onto my home. There’s no room for magnolia walls here. Or brown rug pad come to think of it. I hope the blog helps those who are unsure of how to decorate in a rental property. You’re welcome.
If you’re in the process of building a new home or remodeling your old home, you’ll want to consider a variety of Wood choices. Not every Wood is a suitable choice for every home – just like a granite counter-top is not right for every single kitchen. You’ll want to look at the hardness, color variations, durability, And ability to handle moisture And humidity for your climate.
Solid Wood Flooring
Solid Wood flooring comes in three main types. Each type is available in both an Unfinished And a Pre-finished version.
Refer to our page Unfinished vs Pre-finished to learn more: Unfinished Vs Pre-finished Hardwood Floor
* Strip flooring
This type of flooring is denoted by the thickness And width of the Wood planks. Strip flooring has a set width, but the thickness can vary. Strip flooring ranges in thickness from 5/16 of an inch to 3/4 of an inch wide. It is available only in widths of 1 1/2 inches, 2 inches And 2 1/4 inches.
* Plank flooringHome
It is available only in thicknesses of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch And a range of widths from 3 inches to 8 inches. Plank flooring only comes in two thicknesses, but unlike strip flooring, the widths can vary.
* Parquet flooring
They are made up of geometrical patterns composed of individual Wood slats held in place by mechanical fastening or an adhesive. Parquet floors have a very different look from typical hardwoods.
Engineered Wood Flooring
Engineered flooring is produced by adhering layers of plastic Laminate veneer With real Wood. Engineered Wood flooring should not be confused With Laminate Wood flooring, Laminate flooring contains no actual Wood.
Acrylic-impregnated Wood Flooring
This type of flooring is most commonly used in commercial, not residential, projects. Acrylic-impregnated Wood flooring is infused With sealant And color throughout the thickness of the Wood. This type of Floor is very hard And it is highly resistant to moisture And scratches.
* Oak, White And Red
* White Ash
* Douglas Fir
There are a host of other natural hardwoods, but these are the most common. They have varying degrees of hardness, color ranges And moisture stabilities.
If you have a pet dog in your home, you might get regular surprises from him whenever you adjust your furniture. Cleaning dog urine is not much difficult when you notice it immediately. But, it might be the case that you’re pet had done the deed long ago and you cameto know about that recently. In that case, it is really going to be difficult. However, there are ways to clean the carpets and get rid of dog urine easily and restore the carpet. how to remove set in urine stains from carpet?
Various methods on how to get dog urine out of carpet have been discussed here:
How can i remove dog urine odor from carpet?
#1. If the urine has been let out by your pet recently, then it might be very easy to clean. All you need to do is just put a wet towel over the carpet along with a heavy weight. It would absorb the urine in some time. Make sure that you dip the towels in cold water else they might ruin your carpet. Around 10 minutes of time would be sufficient.
#2. In this method, be sure that you know exactly when the urine was passed. If it had been already soaked, you might need to put a wider layer of wet towel over the carpet. Also, once the urine has been removed, do not forget to pour cold over the carpet directly. This would remove the smell of urine to a large extent.
#3. After cold water, spray an enzymatic cleaner so that the proteins of urine are broken down and the smell is removed. Pets generally tend to urinate over the same spot. This enzymatic cleaner would also stop him for urinating in the same area. Different types of enzymatic cleaners are available in the market. It depends on the stuff of your carpet as to which one you should select.
#4. You can repeat the method in case your carpet is still not back to its former glory. This time, leave the towel there for over a night.
#5. Remember, the towels you have used inthis entire method should be directly disposed of, otherwise your pet would sense the smell of it and mark them again.
#6. Finally, you can steam clean the carpet so that the minute traces of the stains are also removed. You can rent a steam cleaner from a home store if you think that buying it would be a waste of money.
How do you get old pet stains out of carpet?
#1. This is comparatively difficult than cleaning new stains method. And, you need to know correct method of How To Get Dog Urine Out Of Carpet. You would need to buy a special UV light or fluorescent black light for the purpose. You can avail these kinds of bulbs at any domestic store.
#2. The stains of the pet urine might not be visible to you in daylight, especially if they are too old. But, the odour from them might be stinking the entire house. So, start at night and search for them in your carpets at night. In darkness, switch ON your UV light and start searching. As soon as you see yellow or green colour spots, stop and confirm that it is pet urine.
#3. Clean the stains as soon as you find them. If there are a large number of stains, you can take advantage of a marking tape or something. If you do not have anything like that, just place some items on the stains. And, one by one, start cleaning them by using the same method of soaking a towel in water and placing it over the carpet. Again, use enzymatic cleaner and clean the area using steam cleaner.
$4. This time, you would have to definitely clean the area using steam cleaner as the stains would be rigid. Also, an additional step of oxidation would need to be implemented. Oxidisers release oxygen, which is an important gas to remove the unwanted smell from various areas. But, make sure that you are not cleaning a silk carpet because a silk carpet might be destroyed by oxidation.
#5. Oxy-Clean products seem to be containing oxygen, but they don’t. Instead, they use hydrogenperoxide. Hence, resist using them.
Removing dog urine smell step by step
1. If the area is still wet you should first attempt to absorb the dog urine. Leaving it there to dry out will only encourage bacterial growth which causes the smell. The best method is to place several layers of paper towel over the wet area and tread on it so as to soak up as much of the dog urine as you possibly can. You may have to repeat this several times until no more urine can be soaked up.
Sometimes dog urine accidents have already dried because you did not notice them previously. You can find dried urine patches on your carpet with the aid of a black light. The dog urine stains will fluoresce under the ultra violet light in a darkened room. Hand held black lights are quiet inexpensive usually costing between $15 – $25
2. The next step is to mix a solution of fifty percent white vinegar and fifty percent water. You must use a liberal amount of this solution to reach the carpet fibers deep down. Work the solution in with a scrubbing brush to ensure it penetrates the carpet fibers below. Now blot the area again using the paper towel method above. The vinegar will neutralize the ammonia in the dog urine. This area must now be allowed to dry which you can assist by using a fan or opening the windows. If you own a wet and dry vacuum extractor use that to remove excess moisture.
3. When the area has dried sprinkle a good handful of baking soda over the soiled area. Mix half a cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide with a teaspoon of detergent. Ordinary dishwashing detergent is quite suitable. Put on a pair of rubber gloves and slowly pour the hydrogen peroxide and detergent mixture over the baking powder. Work the dissolving baking soda well into the carpet, first with your fingers and then with a scrubbing brush.
Once again allow the area to dry completely and then vacuum thoroughly. In areas that have been heavily soiled with dog urine you may have to repeat the process again.
Important. Never use ammonia or ammonia-based products on the carpet to remove pet pee. One of the ingredients of urine is ammonia and your dog or puppy may well be encouraged to re-offend in the same area if it detects the smell of ammonia. Many household cleaner cleaners contain ammonia so be sure to read the label.
Practical advice to get the job done more efficiently
Styles come and go — remember shag carpet? That’s actually good for carpet and hard floor cleaning professionals, especially if you take the time to stay in touch with the latest cleaning techniques.
One trend is the growing popularity of wood, cork and other hard floor materials. You can profit from this trend if you have existing customers who have or are considering installing wood flooring in their home or business. William Griffin, in an article on wood floor care in Cleanfax.com, recognizes the opportunities and offers some practical advice for cleaning wood floors the right way.
“In the past,” Griffin says, “many of these flooring materials required detailed procedures, products and equipment in order to properly maintain and restore their natural beauty without the risk of damage.”
The good news is that finish manufacturers have kept pace by developing more advanced cleaning products so it’s easier than ever to clean wood floors — even if they’re actually laminates, engineered wood or exotic materials like cork or bamboo.
First steps involve inspecting and testing the floor’s condition. Failing to do that, says Griffin, leads to problems. Other red flags are failing to communicate with the customer “regarding limitation of the process, and a tendency to oversell the process when, in fact, a complete sand and refinish is what’s needed to obtain acceptable results in the eye of the buyer.”
If you get a job treating wood floors, develop a checklist to make sure you cover your bases:
Communicate with your client — photograph the problem areas and show finish examples (gloss, satin etc.)
Test the existing finish with the cleaning products you plan to use
Create a “scope of work” and have the customer sign it — it should specify number of coats and cost
Apply thin to medium coats
Do not use air movers (they can stir up dust and ripple the finish)
Give your customer instructions on proper cleaning of the surface
Make a note to yourself to keep in touch with your customers — wood floors need to be recoated every few years and this is your chance to generate repeat business.
Practical advice to get the job done more efficiently
Do any of your customers have tile floors? Then you probably know a bit about tile and grout maintenance. Actually, “tile and grout maintenance” is a misnomer — it’s all about keeping the grout clean.
Keeping the hard floor surface is a piece of cake. Whether the tile is porcelain, ceramic, quarry, terra-cotta or brick, best practices for cleaning hard floors are basically the same. The raw materials that go into tile are varied, ranging from clay to quartz.
The one thing they have in common is that they produce an end product that is extremely durable and water resistant. They typically have a ceramic hardness rating of 5 (the hardest). Contrast that with grout, which is extremely porous and irregular.
No surprise, then, that grout soils faster and more distinctly than tile. If the grout (and tile) were installed properly, then the grout was treated with a sealer. Even then, without proper maintenance the grout discolors quickly. Proper maintenance is not simply damp mopping or spot mopping. This only moves soil from one spot to another.
What’s the solution? Actually, there are three:
One: Use a pressurized spinning tool and hot water extractor. This basically blows the soil out of the low areas so the extractor can eliminate it.
Two: Use counter-rotating brushes in combination with a wet-floor vac.
Three: Use a rotary floor machine with a wet floor vac.
For some great options in equipment, see EDIC’s line of tile and grout cleaning machines.
TIP: Whichever periodic cleaning method you use, the key is to get your customer to agree to a routine (daily, if possible) cleaning schedule for basic mopping and regular professional service. Avoid black soil buildup on the grout in the first place, and you won’t have to deal with a complete restoration.
Practical advice to get the job done more efficiently
Are you an expert at cleaning upholstery? Or are you an expert at cleaning carpet — and simply pick up upholstery cleaning jobs when they come along?
If you fall in the second camp, then you just may find yourself cleaning upholstery the same way you do carpet. Same process. Same cleaning solutions. Same equipment.
Sound familiar? If so, you may be running into problems that you don’t have to. Here are some tips to help you eliminate the problems and help you charge the right amount — probably more — for upholstery jobs.
First use the proper pre-spray. Don’t just grab your carpet pre-spray and figure that’s good enough. There’s a big difference chemically between the two and you’ll see the difference in the final result. Then, make sure you apply the pre-spray properly — apply it evenly, heavy enough to work but not so heavy that it goes through the fabric to the padding. Use a good sprayer — not a trigger sprayer. The best way is to get a one or two-gallon stainless-steel sprayer with a hose long enough to reach around furniture.
After you apply the pre-spray, agitate. Get yourself a good brush to handle this task — a horsehair brush with a tight bristle pack will do the job nicely.
Next, get ready for extraction. Pre-test a spot and you’re ready to go.
Use the proper cleaning equipment. If you have a truckmount, you may be tempted to use it for upholstery. Not necessarily. A good portable with a handheld upholstery tool gets the job done just as well. And you’re not putting excess wear and tear on your expensive equipment. A good portable provides plenty of heat, enough pressure (less than 100 psi is plenty) and quite enough extraction power for often-delicate fabrics.
Develop your expertise with upholstery cleaning and you’ll find this is a great way to boost business!
The reason is that people have come to expect a certain level of “green” and they turn to companies that announce they are green. Professional carpet cleaners know this, which is one reason that ISSA.com’s number two most-watched quick-clip video of 2012 was “Green Cleaning: Fading Away?”
The basics of green cleaning begin with an understanding of the products that are a fundamental part of any green cleaning program. As the movement has matured, a general agreement has developed around definitions of cleaning products that have a preferred environmental safety and health profile.
In short, green products need to meet certain criteria. According to ISSA, you can classify a product as green if it is one of the following:
Certified by the Environmental Choice EcoLogo Program
Based on independent documentation, the product in question meets at least one of the appropriate Green Seal standards.
If you use green-certified cleaning products, you can ensure you’re getting “marketing credit” in the eyes of your customers by including some simple statements in your marketing materials. “Green” may not be capturing the headlines, but consumers are still concerned about the safety of products used in their homes and businesses. Check out your marketing and update them if necessary to reflect your use of green products. And if you don’t use green products, it’s time to learn!
Practical advice to get the job done more efficiently
Professional carpet cleaners know that effective cleaning depends on measuring the pH of the soil or stain. Quick and easy ways to test the pH of a stain include using litmus paper, pH paper or an electronic pH meter. You can also use the same items to test the pH of your cleaning solution. Cleaning solutions and carpet stains fall into one of three pH categories:
acidic (with a pH reading of less than 7), neutral (pH of 7) or alkaline (pH over 7). If you know the pH of the spot, you should use a cleaner with an opposite pH to remove the soil. As a rule of thumb, all-purpose carpet cleaners are usually alkaline (high pH) cleaners, since most stains fall into the acid category.
Adhering to these general guidelines will help you clean carpet effectively. But there’s a lot more to pH than the basics, and if you want to take your business to the next level, it pays to develop a more in-depth understanding of pH. According to James Smith in a recent article at Cleanfax.com, “We must remember that nylon and wool are the two fibers most likely to need definitive alkaline limits.” Since that pertains to many of your jobs, it’s worth digging deeper into Smith’s article. His sound advice includes the following:
“In most cases, wool should not be over a pH of 5.5. This would include before it is cleaned, during its cleaning, and afterwards. If wool’s reading is higher than this, its polarity will revert to its natural anionic state and it will no longer have colorfastness with acid-dyes.”
“It is just an educated guess, but nylon should not have a pH higher than 8. It needs a pH higher than 7 for detergency to reach a satisfactory level. Higher than 8 indicates that its stain resistance is likely damaged. Soil’s pH is generally from 6.1 to 6.7.”
As a professional carpet cleaner, you probably have your go-to list of presprays or preconditioners that you carry. That’s good, but if you haven’t given any thought lately to your normal collection of supplies, now’s a good time to brush up on the basics.
The key is that most products work well most of the time. The one thing to remember is that no product is right for every job. So, let’s take a look at three main types.
Surfactants typically act as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents and dispersants. Surfactants are actually a class of molecule and, when it comes to cleaners, the relevant surfactant types are anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic. The key to their cleaning effectiveness is their ability to lower the surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid.
The most common problem (although still not frequent) with surfactants is the possibility of leaving a sticky residue. That, of course, can result in resoiling.
Mike Kerner, a chemist with Legend Brands, has some tips for using surfactant products.
Use no more than the recommended label concentration. Surfactants don’t always work better at higher concentrations. Sometimes the performance actually declines.
If you get creative and think you have an additive that works great in a product that contains a surfactant, check with the manufacturer first. You might have a great idea, but there might be a compatibility problem.
Low foaming surfactants are becoming ever more popular and they actually work pretty well. If you are accustomed to seeing foam during preconditioning, for example, and you don’t see it when testing a new product, fear not. If it cleans, the lack of foam will make the extraction process much easier.
Solvents are designed to dissolve things. Good cleaning products dissolve soil and don’t hurt fabrics, fabric coatings or textile dye.
Solvents have received a lot of regulatory attention. Volatile types can cause bad odor, health issues, air pollution and fire hazards — but luckily these problems are rare. Consequently, the trend is to use solvents that will not evaporate but are water soluble and biodegradable.
Polar solvents typically dissolve in water, and non-polar solvents typically dissolve in oil.
TIP: If you use solvents frequently, you’ve probably discovered that you get good results by blending solvents in a prespray to handle different types of soil. If you have tried this, give it a shot. The trick is to read all labels carefully. Select your solvents to clean petroleum-based soils, cosmetics stains, dried fruit juice and so forth.
A biological detergent is a laundry detergent that contains enzymes harvested from micro-organisms such as bacteria. Biological detergents clean in the same way as non-biological ones — the key difference being that the enzymes have an additional effect. Specifically, they break down protein, starches and fat in dirt and stains — food stains, sweat and mud, for example.
A few more tips from Lerner, the chemist:
Enzymes tend to be pretty fussy about their environment. They usually work better when warm, but not too warm. They become ineffective if temperatures are too hot. They also work best in a specific pH range, so don’t get creative with acidic or alkaline additives unless the manufacturer specifies their use.
Enzymes like to do their work in a fairly leisurely manner. They don’t have a schedule to keep. You have to be patient and allow enough contact time for them to be effective.
Enzymes can be pretty irritating to the lungs, so avoid breathing dusts or aerosols generated during normal application. After all, the enzyme can’t tell the difference between the protein soil in the carpet and the lining of your lungs.